Oaxaca and La dia del mortes.

Oaxaca – La dia del mortes

So it is difficult perhaps to explain to those who don’t know about these 3 days of celebrations what they are all about, but to surmise from what I have now learnt it is about a time of remembering those we have lost; reminding their souls that they are not forgotten and laughing in the face of death by saying that even though we know one day we too will pass to the other side our time is not now and we are thankful for that and plan to party and make the most of the time we have here (or at least that’s how it’s celebrated now). There was plenty of Mescal swigged and by the end of the night there were more than a few comatosed and costumed Oaxacans and visitors.

Oct 31st is dedicated to children or ‘little angels’ who have died; Nov 1st to adults; and Nov 2nd to wishing them farewell. On the 1st I joined a group travelling to nearby village famed for it's traditions. It seems families meet together and prepare food and build alters with photos and burn incense and light candles and say prayers at home and in the cemeteries. Then villages join together and dress in costumes representing death and its many forms in the most amazingly ornate colorful and symbolic clothes. People shout insults at them. Then accompanied by brass bands and drums they dance into a frenzy before parading through the streets. On Sat we joined a village where then paraded to the local square where a circle was formed and almost a jury set up. Then the characters (all men on this occasion) began to take the ‘micki’ out of everything we complain about in life and how ridiculous it is that we don’t make more of the time we have and the people around us. Stalls selling food and drinks and deserts and traditional items added to the carnival atmosphere. Then people went to their houses to continue the party and we headed home.

The 2nd I spent in Oaxaca city, bands paraded through the streets to the main cemetery where a fairground had been set up outside. Families returned once more to the gravesides. In the town was an incredible theatre performance in front of another church: a collaboration between many local groups, it portrayed in dance and music and silent performance the cycle of life and death (Something else to learn more about). The evening ended with a few drinks and music on the roof: mainly Mescal, which I am now off.

The past two days my stomach has been cramping; probably some combined effect of eating too much street food; drinking Mescal and taking strong ibuprofen. My knee seems almost better now so I am cutting out the painkillers too. I guess I should also curb the street food; but my desire for new tastes and culinary exploration drives me to try things – will I never learn? Apparently Dan one of my evening companions who was a German national kick boxer also suffered the same fate. Mmmm probably the hamburgueses. If I ever get the chance to come here again it will be for a language and culinary course.