Chiapas - land of the zapatista

So, I took my first Mexican autobus. It was luxurious! The journey seems faded now compared to my mammoth 20 hours today (10th) but was a 12 hour one. The night before I had met a really nice American couple, it was she that I went to the Obama party with J.

I spent my last day in Oaxaca with a rosie Irish woman, Clair, who herself was writing a book about her adventures. We had lunch together and learnt a lot about and from each other. She had fallen in love and we talked life, love and travel. It was great to connect like this with someone again and felt like meeting an old friend.

On the bus, I sat next to a tall and bearded Aussie form New South Wales. He too was travelling to San Cristobal. We learnt a little about each other and then attempted to watch a crap film, in Spanish before falling asleep. I pretty much slept the whole way (it was overnight) and arrived early morning. I packed by bike and bag onto a trolley and bought a coffee. I then had the luxury of spending 10 mins watching the tourists come and be harassed and go their various ways. I’m not sure if I have perfected the art of looking like I belong (err yep!) or just that I clearly had too much stuff to be persuaded to go anywhere I was thankfully left on peace. An estate cab finally arrived and I packed in by bike and headed to the ‘backpackers hostel’. This was recommended over los hostelos de camelos by the cab driver. I’m not sure this was however the right choice.

It was early morning and San Cristobal felt freezing. At the hostel, I opted for the smaller 4 bed door (an extra 20 pesos) thinking this would afford me greater privacy. I couldn’t have been more wrong, and I have been reminded of one of the golden travelling rules. Always view the room before you pay! Anyway, it seemed nice enough although a little dark and cold. There was a shower and toilet and a mezzanine occupied by a German gentleman who looked like a well worn traveler (in the nicest possible way). “I have had to sleep with three blankets and was still cold. It’s freezing here!” was his greeting. We gathered our breakfast of toast and jam, fruit: papaya and pineapple, and coffee and headed to the roof to thaw out in the sun. The views of the rooftops and mountains made it feel like the right place and reminded me a little of being in India. The avocado tree however reminding us we are in Meso –America!

A mid morning wander with the guy from the bus revealed San Christobal to be vibrantly colourful both in it’s people and its buildings and all manner of handicrafts, hammocks and clothes. Were it not for the extortionate mailing costs, I would’ve been tempted to send home a pressie for all. Wonderful! I returned to the hotel to shower now the day had warmed sufficiently only to find the room had no water. AND there was no lock on the door so there was no-way to secure the room and the non-functioning toilet and showers were shared with the adjacent dorm so there was absolutely no security. Everything therefore had to be locked in a cupboard. As for privacy…. Well obviously the fact that there was no water meant there had to be a plumber sent for and clearly they had to come in (3 of them) whilst I was trying to change. When they weren’t there, there was the cleaner.

I decided to book a day trip: Waterfalls and Palenque. I can’t begin to describe these. Hopefully the photos speak for themselves.

That evening I bumped into the American couple again and we went to see a film about the Zapatistas and their take-over of San Cristobal in 1994. Interesting, although the level of violence was quite disturbing. As were the stories of hold-ups on the road I planned to travel. Still I have survived and what a beautiful part of the country. The jungled hills, ancient ruins and colourful, dynamic villages making this an un-missable part of Mexico.

The bus journey from here to Akumel was due to take 18 hours but other than flying via Mexico City this was the only option: so I went for the better bus and decided to enjoy it.

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/Chiapas#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/Palenque#


There are a lack of photos of people as it is believed to steal the soul and I didn't want to offend :-)