Panama

I am feeling particularly blessed to be in Panama at the moment. The weather is perfect, the people especially friendly and helpful and it is an increadibly beautiful country. Wow.

So, I have been staying at Luna's castle whilst in Panama city. It is in the old city, in a colonial mansion near to the presidential palace, and the view from my room over Panama bay are amazing. It is a gorgeous city, very similar to Havana. A photographers dream, and although many of the buildings have run into disrepair as people left to the more modern area of downtown, they still hold a beauty and style that is magical.

After 2 nights here initially, I headed off to the San Blas archipelago. What can I say? Without doubt one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. A collection of around 350 idyllic carribean islands. really, whatever image is in your head of paradise, I challenge you to create one more beautiful that these perfectly formed, coconut palm covered, white sand fringed islandets. The sea was also to die for. Crystal clear. Surprisingly, there wasn't as much sea life as I had expected, except for on one of the further islands - Holandes, where I was fortunate enough to swim with manta rays and an amazing beutiful, as yet unidentified shark. The sand around the island was literally teaming with sea stars. Unbelievably perfect. I am soooooooooo lucky!

Fron there I headed straight to the Northern highlands with the idea of walking to the highest point in Panama. Volcano Baru. However, I couldn't find anyone to accompany me, and the sensible side of me kicked in, so decided instead to walk the Quetzel trail. Whilst I didn't get the views I'd hoped for, this itself was an amazing trek, made all the more interesting by the fact that the path had been totally wiped out by a landslide at one point so we had to do a rather precarious scramble across a muddied and scarily unstable landslide site. Not the sort of thing I'd have mentioned in advance, but having survived and completed one of the most beautiful jungle treks I've ever done feel now it is safe to do so. The sign at the end of the walk had a warning and said the track was closed. Typical! Still, very glad we did it.

It was a good 8 hour warm up for my next challenge, the Inca trail. I fly to Peru this afternoon. I'm very excited. I really can't describe how lucky I feel to be having these amazing experiences. I can only hope the rest of my trip is as enjoyable and easy as this first stretch has been. Love to you all, Anne x

CEA

So, how can I summarise my time at CEA?

Well, the first month was a little slow, although we did do some basic reef monitoring as part of a worldwide reef check. I began to specialise in Corals and reef creatures. fascinating. The technique involved some ballet like diving, unside down S shaped surveying. It must have looked very funny. we did well though.

The following 2 months involved some intensive study, and snorkling, in addition to the bay monitoring work which had me out in the kayak each day trying to regulate the bahaviour of visiting snorklers. The time in the 'palapa' was also interesting, talking to and attempting to educate visitors as to the importance of limiting their impact on the bay. Although latin was never my forte, with a bit of help, I finally managed to learn all of the species required and recognise them under water. The reefs are unfortunatel in pretty bad shape and heading towrds being algal reefs rather than coral. A sad state of a ffairs, and apparently destined to get worse if something insn't done to limit the damage development causes. The main problem is lack of treatment of waste water.

The 3rd month, thanks to Amigos de Sian Ka'an, we actually did 2 weeks of really great survey work, in Playa del Carmen, Puerto Murelos and Akumal. It was so good to put into practice what we had learnt and also a privalege to get to see so many different dive sites. I loved it and given half the chance would make a career move into this area.

http://www.amigosdesiankaan.org/

Spurred on by the damage I had seen, I decided to spend the last month on the water programme carrying out research to discover what was happening to the waste water in the area. Unfortunately this yielded some rather disturbing results as it appears a lot of it is being dumped in 'the jungle'. The bedrock of the Yukatan peninsular is porous karst and internally holds a rather complex system of underground rivers - the areas water source. This practice is therefore not only damaging for the reef as all water empties eventually out to the coast, but also a potential health hazard. It will be interesting to see actually what becomes of this area with the increase in development planned. I can't help feeling it is on the verge of an ecological disaster. I can only hope that policy is altered, and more importantly implemented. Too often the laws are bent or ignored, with devestating results.

Part of this programme was educational, working with the local high school. I actually realy enjoyed working with young people again. I also gave a talk to a visiting group of students from the US. Just to blow my own trumpet, I was told they were more involved in this that any of the other things they did. I really enjoyed it, and it was great to hear that my teaching skills have not left me. Phew!

The last two months I also started doing some English teaching at the local library. I had forgotten how much I enjoyed doing this. It was so wonderful to be able to pass on a much needed skill to the workers of the area. I was asked to take over the library for a while, and to be honest was tempted. However, I feared I would never leave so decided to decline the offer. Whilst I was sad to leave. I felt the time had arrived. For those wanting to know more here is the cea link}

http://www.ceakumal.org/

Reef monitoring

So rather late perhaps and slow.... as I am now almost at the end of March. My move is nigh.... love this link. interesting for anyone wondering why I have been tryng to learn more about coral reefs. they are amazing!!!!!

http://www.iyor.org/reefs/default.asp#CORAL

The kindness of strangers

So, I feel I have to write this entry. I have spent the early part of this week studying fish names for identification purposes and today started learning about coral and the diseases afflicting it. I have also had to master a number of indicator invertebrate species and learn survey techniques. I love it.

We have done two dives and apparently I am "very good". It is like going home for me. That feeling of neutral buoyancy and controlling ones movements with the brush of a fin or slight adjustment to ones breath. It is a sense of belonging and responding to ones environment at a level of subtlety and sensitivity that I seldom feel in terrestrial habitats. It has given me access to that part of myself, that at my core that is calm and relaxed and feels that everything is as it should be.


I also actually went out on my bike today. Yes, I have managed to reconstruct it and get it working. Yippee (pat on the back). It felt good and my knee seemed to be back to fully functionability. No pain and lots of pleasure (just as I like it). I got a few looks and some comments, but also noticed a lot of the locals cycling. So that's all good. I even loaded up my panniers with washing and found a laundrette and a great place to eat. I feel I have regained my independance and feel t will be worthwhile even for getting around here as it is relatvely isolated. Joel, my project co-ordinator also told me one of his friends is a triathlete so I am hoping to join him on an extended bike ride soon. I will have to get some training in I think. At least the daily swims and kayaking should keep up some of my strength. It is however nothing like the hard core 6/7 hours a day I was almost getting used to though. Still, looking back there was a certain level of pain and stiffness that I was getting used to waking up with and am hapy to be living without. I am slightlly fearful this is what life will feel like everyday by the time I reach 70. Still, I have a way to go till then. It seemed ironic that I have always chosen soft sports to try and avoid injuries that would bother me in later life. I was put off 'tough' sports after having my shin bone chipped by a hockeyball. I guess distance cycling is actually quite tough. At least that's how it seems when I try and do my usual 'plan for the worst case scenario and then you know you're covered whatever happens', solo and skint this just does not add up.

Scuba diving doesn't seem to count as the water is warm and feels gentle and supportive. It is shear delight!

Anyway, just when I thought my week couldn't get any better, I arrive back from my sojourn to discover a parcel has arrived. I just had a hunch so asked at the post office here. I had to move room today so didn't open it immediately. I also have the pleasure of my own room for the night before another volunteer arrives tomorrow.

As I expected it was from Peter and Oscar in Texas: my locks and bungees.... but included was also a surprise gift.. a recorder!! This is what I have been missing.. an instrument to play. I actually had had to borrow a guitar earlier just to give me some musical outlet.. and now... I have my own. Yipeee!!! Thankyou!!!!!

So, the first few hours in my new room were spent exploring my new instrument and playing along to some Irish music so I felt I had some friends and it was so nice to think someone was thinking of me this way. Wow! I have reached a new level of feeling at home here, thanks to the kindness of two wonderful strangers (now friends I think), Oscar and Peter. Thankyou again!!!

The other volunteers have gone out for Pizza tonight. I think I may have scared them!! Mmmm... perhaps I need to find a hidie hole to practice in. Or maybe I will just go to the beach and enjoy!

I have spag bol and a recorder and a whole private beach. What more could a girl like me ask for?

I hope and trust you are all well.

Love and musical thoughts,

Anne x

The Pacific Cycle route - Oregon

More photo's. I hope these links work, but they won't even nearly capture the experience. I have to encourage anyone who's almost nearly able to give it a go. Amazing!

I hope the name of the links is self explanatory, after the general file name they describe point on route.

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/LastNightOfLuxuryinSeattleWithMyNEWBike#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/OldScenicHighwayAndMultanomahHoodRiver?authkey=ZyN8pnsN7dM#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/BackstageWithGaelicStormRockAndRollFunIWannaBeInABand#


http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/LeavingTheHostelAtPortlandAmberLeeAndAmberRose?authkey=FSE4KQfByko#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/PortlandViaTilamookToCapeLookout?authkey=dTHTwdwZ5sI#

This one is a mixture:
(http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/PortlandSouthTo111m?authkey=kJd4WIUOMgs#)


http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/CapeLookoutToNeskowinCreek?authkey=w88DCxruRnw#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/ASpotOfBotherBrokenChainButNotABadSpot03#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/CrossingTheBridgeNtoNewport?authkey=znO0vwalgwg#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/TheBridgeFromFlorenceAndJessieMHoneymanMemorialPark#


This was actually the night I fell and twisted my knee. Grrr...
http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/AColdNightAtHumbugMtnStateParkPlayingWithFireTheWarmthMmmmm?authkey=Np7nIcE1c8U#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/LastLegToCalifornia#

Photos - Pacific Coast Route - prep

I hope these links now work, obviously they are slightly dated now and rather unadulterated so they are for brwsing in your own time. I plan to work on them when I get the chance but at present seem to be taking photos faster than I can upload and edit. So many beautiful and amazing things and my camera is my only way of trying to capture the sense of a place to ahre it with you. That way I feel you are with me also, as you are in my heart and thoughts. Happy viewing,

Anne x

Vancouver, BC
http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/Vancouver?authkey=GQWbX37-zXc#

Down town Seattle
http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/DowntownSeattle#

The U-District
http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/TheUDistrictSeattle#

Trying out the bike
http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/HavingAMeDay#

http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/PlayingAroundLakeWashington#

Choosing a team
http://picasaweb.google.com/anneb007/IFindATeamToSupportNowIFeelAtHome#

Akumel

So, the bus journey was actually great. The scenery passed smoothly. We were held up for a while and in the end it took 20hours but we all arrived safely. The seats reclined fully and I was right infront of the TV screen so could watch the golden compass and 2 bizarre horror movies in comfort whilst feeling I may indeed be improving my Spanish. The bus company charged me extra for taking the bike but I was glad to pay it.

I met another teacher on the bus. He was Canadian and travelling for vacation. He was very personable and chatty. I was sat next to a friendly Mexican guy who thankfully kept himself to himself so I could relax and watch the world go by. Upon arrival I left my bags and arranged a taxi. Quite expensive (200pesos) but it was a long way and I didn’t object as he helped get the bike in. We found the centre fairly easily and I was introduced to the couple I will be sharing with. They too are (retired) teachers – Mexico seems full of usJ. They were really kind and showed me around and made me feel a little at home. They have been here in their own room for a month so it will be a little weird for them to have me here I’m sure. Anyway they went to Cozumel diving for the day. I was tempted to join them but decided instead to stay and unpack and settle and do my laundry (boring but necessary!).

The room is pretty basic but there is a shared kitchen and lounge. It reminded me a little of CAT in Mach. There is a great café, a restaurant and shops on the complex along with a swanky hotel and 2 dive schools. The offices seem well equipped and the beach…. Well just wait for the photos. I am in sabbatical heaven! I held my first turtle today (rescued as had a twisted shoulder and waiting until it is ready to be released). I then ‘helped’ (I could actually only watch as I had no ID) count the number of hatched and infertile eggs in a number of nests. Apparently I missed a few days of tagging last week were volunteers were in the water catching to tag turtles. I guess this would’ve been great experience but hopefully there will be more, and getting to stay in Oaxaca and see Palanque was worth it. I just couldn’t rush it.

Now I am here, I know it will be difficult for me to leave. It is very interesting as this section of the beach is privately owned by Centre Ecological Akumel (CEA) rather than centrally by the government and is one of, if not the main area on this barrier reef where the turtles come to feed and nest. I have so much to learn that I don’t want to say too much, but I think there are at least 6 different species that can be found here. They are feeding on the sea grass right in front of the centre.

Tomorrow I will be on ‘patrol’ in my kayak. Yes, a kayak!! Can you believe it? Palm trees, soft white sand, turtles, sea, diving, snorkeling AND kayaking. Can it get any better? Hello all! I have finally arrived at the reason I took my year off. I adore marine conservation! I am actually holding in little squeals of delight and only hope that it all works well and I can stay; maybe even for the full 3 month training programme. I will then continue down the coast and try to visit the meso-american barrier reef further south. For those of you who have never seen me next to a beautiful turquoise sea brimming with life, I can assure you I am in my element. You will seldom find me happier. I shall keep you posted.

Happy smiles and birthday wishes to Rachel and Christina,

Anne x